Rainbows in the Shadow of Alerces National Park

By Bruce Elliston

     There in the Tanqueray-clear water of the Rio Rivadavia, I released a 20-inch rainbow on January 12, though I can hardly register the fact. My friends, including Frank Smith, who often fishes in Argentina, with guide and Patagonia River Guides co-owner of Rance Rathie, were the only other humans on this river this day. The temperature was 15º C (about 59º F) in this alpine blue-sky country near the Chilean border. This part of Patagonia offers some of the most beautiful fishing in South America, according to those who have made many trips to the region. Large, native fuchsia plants bloom just to the water's edge under Koihue and Maiten trees. The ringed kingfishers (Ceryle torquatan) may have been more beautiful than our fisherman but not likely more successful. We had plenty of "20-fish" days, more rainbows than browns, averaging greater than 42 cm (over 17 inches), but who is counting?

     This relaxed and affable group was led by Patagonia River Guides. The day began with self-deprecating humor and the sharing of wise cracks triumphant, comic or just plain ridiculous. Our bilingual guides shared their tales and history of this exotic culture. We were always parsing for meaning and signs that might help our fishing, or at least improve our understanding of the Welsh, Irish, Spanish, etc. settlers in this region. These folks are rightly known for their kindness, graciousness and physical competence, though Chubut is not a province of considerable material wealth.

     I'd traveled from Charlotte, North Carolina, to Miami, Florida, to Buenos Aires, to Bariloche, and then a three-hour drive to Esquel, to stay at the comfortable cottages at La Paz on the Rio Grande River, aka Rio Futuleufu. Nothing in our dreams prepared us for the wondrous waters and the striking vistas in Los Alerces National Park. The largest estancias (some larger than one million acres) strive to maintain traditional culture. Most of the roads used for fishermen are paved, but considerable gravel-road travel is necessary. The top river access points are usually a 30- to 45-minute drive, and each guide has a like-new four-door diesel engine Toyota pickup. The guests we shared our time with ranged in age from 40 to 78 years and each remarked at the good humor and good manners that were exhibited by the staff. Worthy of note is the professional cook staff, a couple from Buenos Aires, who enthusiastically customized the fare for those with special interests. Dinners, in the Argentine tradition, would start about 10 pm and finish about midnight. Fishermen would typically finish the angling day about 8 pm and then gather for socializing in a separate lodge setup for that purpose.

     Back to the fishing: You can expect to see fish attack your fly in such clear water. It was not unusual to see rainbows and browns move 12 to 15 feet in pursuit of a quickly stripped streamer in the Rio Rivadavia. We also fished the Rio Grande, the Rio Arraynes, and the Arroyo Pescado. The Pescado was a unique spring creek, chock-full of large fish, but the wind can blow in that arid ranch valley.

     The co-owner of PRG, Travis Colter Smith, has honed his skills in the North American summer as a top guide with Trout Hunter on the Henry's Fork. The web site PRG.com is loaded with good information, and each detail for travel, transfer and custom support for you and your group is clearly defined in their pre-travel package. In addition, they have the support of a North American travel agent to secure your plans and tickets. Their mailing address is Patagonia River Guides, PO Box 141, Melrose, MT 59743. Their summer telephone number is 208-558-7118. Web site is www.patagoniariverguides.com.

     For those interested in birding, it is very possible to pick up 40 to 50 new species in a couple of days there by Los Alerces National Park. While fishing on the Rio Rivadavia, you could clearly hear, though it is difficult to see, the Chucao Tapeaculo (Scelorchilus rubecula). Along the river are tall cypress trees, and then up in the higher elevation the large forests of the Linga. A hike can be arranged to see the Alerces trees in the National Park. Bring your binoculars; soaring condors are not rare. One of the many good books of the region is Fly Fishing The Best Rivers of Patagonia Argentina by Francisco Bedeschi. (ISBN 987-21927-0-7).

     In summary, if you want to go to the remote Esquel Region of Argentina, the gentlemen at Patagonia River Guides are hungry to build a reputation, and their equipment and work ethic are second to none. I would recommend trips from seven to 14 days, and, if you wish, you can fish a different river every day. Estimated Total cost: $3,450 per week. - Bruce Elliston.

» Home | » Read An Issue Online! | » Subscription Related | » Report Search | » Contact Us