This past August my friend Jim and I fished numerous streams and lakes in the northern Wind River Mountains of Wyoming. We packed into this wilderness area using goats, of all things. I arranged the trip through Jim Ferguson, who guides for Sweetwater Fishing Expeditions. My wife and I had fished with Ferguson the previous summer in the Popo Agie Wilderness area and enjoyed a splendid trip.
During our trip, Ferguson had described goat packing as a means of traversing the wilderness. I was intrigued and determined then to put together such a trip a year later. Ferguson made the packing arrangements with Charlie Wilson of Wind River Pack Goats located in Lander, Wyoming. Wilson provided 12 goats for our eight-day trek.
The overall trip was wonderful, but two particular highlights deserve detailed description. One day was devoted to a trip with the goats to a high alpine lake holding golden trout. Although this species is native to the Sierra Nevada Mountains of California, golden trout have been stocked in lakes in Wyoming since the early 20th century. Indeed, for a number of years, Wyoming was the principle source of golden trout specimens for re-seeding efforts elsewhere in the West. Our destination on this trip was a stunning lake that probably sees fishermen only a few times a year. We were rewarded with voracious and indiscriminate fish. Because the fish were feeding so readily, Ferguson asked everyone to keep count, although that is neither his nor my custom. I counted 42 fish brought to hand within two hours. Two other fishermen accounted for an additional 37. Most were small, but I caught at least one reaching 16 inches and several others in the 14- to 15-inch range. They were truly gorgeous fish.
After crossing the Continental Divide, we had another interesting day in which I claimed a Wyoming Grand Slam. The day started with a confrontation with a bull moose and his mate at early light as I emerged from my tent. Later that morning, Ferguson and I traveled approximately three quarters of a mile to a small lake stocked with grayling. We caught eight- to 12-inch grayling at will. Later, after returning to camp and while the others were packing for the days trek, I fished another nearby lake where I caught stocky brook trout ranging 12 to 13 inches. We then traveled about five miles to our final camping destination on Ross Lake. That evening, I caught Yellowstone cutthroats and an 18-inch rainbow. Four species on the same day ought to qualify as something!
The Ross Lake area was spectacular to fish. The stream connecting Ross Lake and Hidden Lake, known as West Torrey Creek, holds rainbows and cutthroats. Some of the rainbows were surprisingly large. Hidden Lake rewarded us with cutthroats in the 16- to 18-inch category. In approximately two hours of fishing that lake, we all caught numerous fish, with my total exceeding a dozen. Ross Lake is an intriguing fishery that we were unable to explore because of bad weather. A single one-hour period on its shore resulted in a rainbow of 20 inches. Ferguson explained that his favored technique in this lake is to spot a feeding trout and then fish that specific fish. The fish I caught that afternoon was on a Black Woolly Bugger, but more of my catches on the trip were on dry flies.
Wilderness fishing is like no other. We were consistently able to find eager and gullible fish, and the fishery would change from day to day as we moved through the mountains. Wilderness hiking and camping, however, does bring challenges. Often, we spent significant time on camp maintenance, or on the trail rather than with a fly rod in hand. One must be flexible or run the risk of frustration. A missed trail or bad weather can require a change in plans. Also, wilderness travel can be strenuous. We had several hiking days that challenged the limits of our endurance; although both my friend and I are 57 years old, we are in moderately good shape. The outfitters were considerate, set a pace that we could handle and offered unplanned rest days when our bodies were feeling worn.
Both Ferguson and Wilson have a background with the National Outdoor Leadership School located in Lander, Wyoming. They have a depth of knowledge about the wilderness that creates great confidence in their leadership. Conversations are educational as well as entertaining.
As for goat packing, the animals provide a unique charm. These goats, all neutered males, did not smell as my wife predicted they would. Indeed, they were docile and affectionate, behaving more like canines than other pack animals I have experienced. After packing the goats with a saddle and pannier arrangement similar to that used for horses, Wilson would simply turn the goats loose and charge down the trail. Invariably the goats lined up after some sorting and followed along. Soon, we all became part of the herd. We were so accepted that if a fisherman fell too far behind, the tail goat, invariably the one named Trapper, would stop and bleat as if to warn the rest of the herd that some one was lagging and insist that the laggard catch up. At camp, the goats would be unpacked and allowed to roam freely. They foraged happily on whatever was available at a campsite and along the trail. The only special food Wilson carried was some treats that he used to gather the animals in the morning. They would alternatively feed and bed down during the night generally right outside the tents.
Goats provide some distinct advantages over other pack animals in the wilderness. As described, they are much more easily managed that other pack animals. That they forage on their own means packing food for them is unnecessary. They are nimble and readily travel places that would challenge a horse. Their cloven hoofs are much kinder to the trail and environs than are horse hoofs. Their feces consist of grassy spheres similar to moose marbles. Invariably, goat feces became prevalent around the campsite, but it is inoffensive compared to that of a horse.
Both Ferguson and Wilson were very accommodating. They teamed up to provide extraordinary meals. Ferguson brought fresh foods, both vegetables and meats, and orchestrated the meals so that we consumed the most perishable items early in the trip. Freshly caught rainbow trout augmented the packed provisions. Wine was provided at every meal, and both Wilson and Ferguson challenged us to identify the single malt scotch each claimed as his favorite.
The cost of the trip was $2,500 per person. It is a trip suitable for anyone in moderately good shape. The fishing skills required are minimal. Ferguson provides everything except a personal sleeping bag and fishing gear. He is also accommodating about the logistics of pick-up and departure. We flew into Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Ferguson met us at the airport and offered to return us there, but friends living in the vicinity kindly provided a hot shower and transportation at the end of our trip. Sweetwater Fishing Expeditions can customize all of their trips to meet the clients desires.
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