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DATELINE: SLOVENIA
Subscriber Report
Family-Friendly Place
& On-Your-Own Fishing
Editor Note: Honor Roll subscriber Michael Santangelo has filed another report on self-guided fishing in Europe. This time it's in Slovenia, where Santangelo says he has found a place that not only provides splendid accommodations and activities for the family, but will help you access miles of limited-access river on your own.
The Soca River originates in the Julian Alps along the borders of Austria, Italy and Slovenia. As it makes its way through Slovenia to reach the sea, it becomes home to marble trout, which are the endemic trout species of the Adriatic river system. The Soca also contains other trout species, such as rainbows, grayling and browns.
Slovenia is Europe in miniature. Never really a part of the Balkan Peninsula, it has a Germanic influence with an Adriatic touch. As an independent country, Slovenia is relatively young. It broke away from Yugoslavia in 1991 and entered the EU in May 2004. It is one of the wealthiest and most diverse of the new EU entries.
(The magnificent Julian Alps stand like sentinels along the borders of Italy, Austria and Slovenia.) |
What has drawn fly fishers to the Soca since Roman times? For me the reasons varied. The beauty of the river is one. It is reputed to be the most beautiful river in Europe. Its waters are exceptionally clear. The prospect of a new trout species is another reason. Marble trout are particular to this area. Few crowds are yet a third reason. The Slovenians keep the tourist and road infrastructure to a minimum in order to protect the surrounding and beautiful Triglav National Park. Finally, a more personal reason - my grandfather was in this region during the First World War. As an Italian soldier, he was seriously wounded during a gas attack. Counting soldiers on the battlefields along with the civilians behind the lines, almost a million people were killed on the Soca (Isonzo) front between 1915 and 1917. This is the front on which Hemingway based his book, A Farewell to Arms. |
My search for travel information on Slovenia, as almost any search today, began with Google. The internet provided information about fishing license requirements and places to stay. As far as print information in English, the only real option is the Lonely Planet guide on Slovenia.
This fishing trip was in conjunction with a weeklong family vacation. We spent two full days along the Soca. We stayed at the Pristava Lepena. The owners took an abandoned village located above the Soca and turned it into what can best be described as a dude ranch. They offer rustic yet refined cabins in a variety of sizes depending on the number of people in your party. For example, our cabin had an enclosed loft with a queen size bed, and our daughter slept on one of the two day beds downstairs. The cabins have modern interiors and are comfortable and clean. We paid €70 (about $93 US) per day per person with my 12-year-old daughter receiving a 20 percent discount. Half board, included in the rate, is convenient since the nearest town is a good 20 minutes away by car. Breakfast is a continental buffet. Dinner is a sit down affair where you make your choice from the daily menu. You can order ala carte at an extra cost. All of our meals were served outdoors on the patio where we could enjoy the scenery of this fine location.
The Pristava Lepena offers a range of outdoor activities besides fly-fishing. So, while you fish, family members can tour the nearby villages in the valley or go hiking on the local trails. Other activities include bicycling, canyoning, kayaking or rafting trips. The hotel has a stable full of Lipizzaners on site for those interested in horseback riding. In other words, there is something for everybody to do, and the prices are extremely reasonable.
| The hotel provided me with general fly fishing information, such as the types of licenses available and where I could purchase them. For my more specific questions they referred me to another guest who fishes the Soca regularly. With information he passed on to me, I felt very comfortable fishing on my own. For those wanting the service of a guide, the Pristava Lepena will arrange for one. The guide costs €100 ($133) per day for one angler. I'm sure accommodation can be made for a second or third angler. This guide also rents gear for €20 ($27) per day. I suggest that if you want the guiding service and any gear, try to make these arrangements when you make your initial room reservations. I would also confirm what is included in the gear rental. |
(Santangelo holds up a marble trout caught in the Lepenja, a small tributary of the Soca River.) |
The Soca and its tributaries are managed by two different entities. The Fisheries Research Institute of Slovenia manages the upper 10 kilometers of the fishable Soca River and its tributary, the Lepenja. The Angling Club Tomlin manages the lower section of the Soca, about 30 kilometers, and its associated tributaries. The cost for day tickets is dear. In fact, many Slovenians can't afford to fish the Soca themselves. A day ticket in the upper stretch runs between €50 ($67) and €60 ($80). A day ticket in the lower stretch runs €60. Multi-day tickets offer a discount. Many local hotels and campsites sell fishing licenses. I bought my license at the campground just down the hill from the Pristava Lepena. By the way, I saw the warden each morning, and he saw me as well. Be sure to have you license on your person when your go fishing.
The fishing is outstanding. The water is crystal clear, and the smaller fish are frequently visible. However, like any of nature's creatures, the fish adapt to the environment. The bows take on a bright silver sheen becoming nearly invisible. The grayling take on a yellow tinge that matches the river's bottom. To catch the larger fish, you need to get your fly on the bottom along rocks, because that is where the larger fish hold up.
The really large fish (five to 10 pounds) only come out at night. The problem is you can't fish before sunrise and after sundown. So, early morning and late afternoon fishing offer the best chances for the big bows or marble trout. Watching carefully, you can sometimes see them move out from under the rocks. In these situations, a weighted streamer or nymph will work well. Just watch for the take and set the hook.
The smaller fish, 10 to 14 inches, hold in the middle of the water column in deeper pools. My best success came with light colored nymphs such a weighted hare's ear. For a fast strike, a San Juan was always a good initial fly to throw into a pool.
The second night we were there, it rained higher up in the mountains so the river took on the color of glacial silt becoming a bit milky. The added color allowed the larger fish to stay out and away from the rocks until the river cleared around noon. Even in the milky water, I could see their shapes against the bottom. Seeing their takes on the fly was a different matter.
The Lepenja is a small tributary to the Soca. It offered me some great dry fly fishing during the afternoons. Fourteen- to 16-inch trout held up in pools and in the gravelly flats just below riffles. A careful approach would allow for a couple of takes before they all spooked and retreated under the willows along the stream banks. A tan CDC caddis worked very well here.
(Santangelo caught this marble trout in the Soca River.) |
Gear requirements for fishing the Soca need not be complicated. While we had very warm weather, the water was frigid. Waders and wading boots are a must. A five or six weight rod with a floating line will meet the bill. Besides the normal accoutrements that you may carry in your vest, be sure to bring some extra tippet (4, 5 and 6x) and a few extra leaders. As far as flies are concerned, a box of assorted dries and another box with some weighted nymphs and streamers will meet the need. Use some split shot to get the fly down deeper if necessary. |
For information on the Pristava Lepena go to their web site at http://www.levant.si/en/. If you are interested in more information about the Soca and marble trout go to the Angling Club of Tolmin's web site at http://www.ribiska-druzina-tolmin.si (click on the British flag at the bottom of the page for the English version); or see the web site of the Fisheries Research Institute of Slovenia at http://www2.arnes.si/~ljzavodrib6 (click on "English Page").
See more photographs from my trip on my personal web site, http://expat.my-expressions.com. - Michael Santangelo.
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